An artist and a baker

He is first an artist, then a baker. This is what Bruno, the man who plies students and passers-by alike with his pastries and tarts from his boulangerie on rue St.Jacques in the sixth arrondissement tells me. For the first month while making my way to my French class, I would quickly slip in and buy a little something from his abundant and delightful pastries. He experiments well with his fillings, a simple croissant becomes a nut and fruit, or pear-filled, or cheese and nut. His muffins are on one day olive and bacon, on another spinach and cheese; not to mention his tarts - which were also my staple until I decided it may be best to admire Bruno's work from afar.

Ice-skating at the Grand Palais

The last time I was at the Grand Palais, under its expansive nave, was for the Monumenta 2012 exhibition. Yesterday we went for the ice-skating. We went early, armed with our pre-purchased tickets, and prepped for a morning of fun. I had my children and two of their friends, with varying degrees of skating experience. We lasted two hours. It was enjoyable enough, the older children had more fun, whilst the younger ones seemed a bit intimidated by the larger rink and the number of people there - they stayed close to me on the 'young children / amateur side'.

CirkAfrica transports us home

So off to the circus we went again. This time around, it was pure acrobat-infused fun, sans les animaux. I didn't realise how obtuse I had been about the use of animals in circuses until my daughter pointed out the cruelty of it all after another circus trip (shame on me!). More recently, when I mentioned to a friend that I was taking my children to the circus the very first thing out of his mouth was: Sans les animaux bien sûr (Without animals of course).  Oui, bien sûr! I think I can safely say the past month has made me a lot more aware of animal cruelty issues.

Books: BLACK ORCHIDS by Gillian Slovo

Title: Black Orchids        
Author: Gillian Slovo
Genre: Fiction
Published: 2008

I enjoyed Black Orchids, a story dealing with race and set in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and England from the 1940s through to the 1960s. It is a story of the white Evelyn, raised in the then Ceylon as a child of a diplomat father. Her family's life changes when Ceylon is granted independence - leaving the family with having to return to England.

Quick dining at the Relais de l'Entrecôte

I had not really wanted to linger after our meal, but we found that the Relais de l'Entrecôte does not lend itself to that type of slow dining anyway. If you're looking for the kind of place where a midday lunch turns into a late afternoon, and a bottle of wine disappears long before the conversation ends - try some place else. The service is efficient - think conveyor belt efficiency. You wait -inside if you're early but most likely outside - in a winding long queue, to be seated so you can have a salad, their famous entrecôte and pomme allumettes - string fries. That's the sum of the menu.

Dali at the Pompidou

I took in the Salvador Dali exhibition at the Pompidou Centre on Sunday;  the first retrospective of the artist's work to be held in Paris in thirty years. As I made my way around, taking in this surrealist painter's bizarre and at times thought-provoking work, I wondered if it was the art, or his showmanship that had made him the darling of the art world at the height of his career.
Containing over 200 paintings, drawings, collages, assemblages, photos and film clips, the Pompidou Centre is paying hommage to what it calls 'the most complex and prolific figure of 20th century art'.
Dali's theatrics are also shown in short film clips around the exhibition - his eccentricity on full display.

Books: THE BUDDHA IN THE ATTIC by Julie Otsuka

Title: The Buddha in the Attic
Author: Julie Otsuka
Genre: Novel
Published: 2011

Julie Otsuka's book is written in the first person plural -  a style I have never seen used before. It was at first distracting as I thought it was simply a foreword and the style would change. Not the case. By the time I was into the second chapter I had started imagining the women in the story as a collective.
The Buddha in the Attic traces the story of Japanese women that make their journey from Japan to San Francisco as picture brides in the early 1900s. She starts off with the first section catchingly- titled, Come, Japanese!

It has begun...

It seems like it was just yesterday that I was writing about the Christmas markets in Paris. Well here we are again. Two weeks ago the Champs Elysees market stalls opened for business.
More markets will be opening up in the various arrondissements around Paris, all spreading the Christmas cheer. It's seems a bit early - hearing Christmas carols in November, but it looks quite enchanting at night. We went with the children and they were excited to see that the ice-skating rink is larger this year. There is a menagerie of animals; reindeer, bears and lions that has found its place at the market this year.

A night of surprises with Diana Krall

Last night we went to the Diana Krall concert at the Palais des Congres de Paris. I am not a complete jazz aficionado, but the only music that plays in our house on Sundays when we have family and friends over is jazz. Why jazz? No idea, I have just always associated it with relaxed Sunday afternoons, winding down the weekend. Diana Krall is one of my favourite jazz singers so I jumped at the chance to see her. Even if it was to be held at the Palais des Congres. This is a conference centre with behemoth-sized auditoriums - not exactly the perfect venue for an intimate jazz evening. I had also not expected the masses of people that turned up last night. The French love Diana Krall! That was the first surprise.

Books: THE POISONWOOD BIBLE by Barbara Kingsolver

Title: The Poisonwood Bible
Author: Barbara Kingsolver
Genre: Novel
Published: 1998

The Poisonwood Bible is the story of the Price family, an evangelical Baptist family that moves from America to Belgian Congo in the years preceding independence. It is a tragic story of a family living under a very religious - almost fanatical husband and father, who sole mission is to save the heathen Africans from themselves.

Books: INFIDEL: MY LIFE by Ayaan Hirsi Ali

Title: Infidel: My Life
Author:  Ayaan Hirsi Ali
Genre: Memoir
Published: 2007

When I read Infidel more than four years ago, Ayaan Hirsi Ali had lost her dutch citizenship and her status as a member of the Dutch parliament. The controversy about her was over the means in which she had acquired her refugee status in the Netherlands and her subsequent citizenship.
My reading of  Infidel at the time was not tarnished by any preconceived ideas. Writing about the book now, years later and after a second reading, makes me doubt the legitimacy of the harrowing tale she tells.

Books: UNACCUSTOMED EARTH by Jhumpa Lahiri

Title: Unaccustomed Earth
Author: Jhumpa Lahiri
Genre: Fiction
Published: 2008

Jhumpa Lahiri's Unaccustomed Earth is a collection of short stories told from the perspective of different characters, all of Indian origin carving out their lives in the US. The first part of the book is a collection of five different stories, all relating the varying experiences; from the parents - arriving in the US to a world wholly different to what they know;  to their children- born in the US to Indian parents, and struggling with their own identities and the juxtaposition of their origins and their citizenship.

The Buddy Bears in Paris

Lesotho's Bear

The United Buddy Bears are in Paris until November 18th. I saw them a few weeks back and enthusiastically went about photographing these colourful giant two metre bear sculptures. There are 140 of them - representing the countries recognised by the UN-  standing boldly, hand in hand as a sign of tolerance and peaceful coexistence. The exhibition is meant to celebrate twin cities, Paris and Berlin, and to mark the 50th anniversary of the Élysée Treaty and Franco-German relations. They are a creative addition to Champ de Mars. I had a great deal of fun searching for, and photographing Lesotho and South Africa's bears.

More bears can be seen here.

Books: ONE THOUSAND WHITE WOMEN - The Journals of May Dodd by Jim Fergus

Title: One Thousand White Women : The Journals of May Dodd
Author: Jim Fergus
Genre: Fiction
Published: 2011

This book is a fictional book that is so well-researched and written that I had to keep checking whether it was in fact not based on actual records. It is about the the exchange of one thousand white women as brides for Native American men by the American government in the 1800s, in the years immediately prior to the gold rush.

In a bid by white settlers to acquire Native American land, the "Brides for Indians Program" was meant to foster relations between the two people, with the American government hoping to ultimately renege on earlier land treaties. The exchange program was not expected to be a success as the Native Americans unwittingly got a  mixed bag of women that were either former convicts or formerly institutionalised, and those that simply saw volunteering into the program as a way to escape from their lives.

The circus and an education in animal rights

Cirque d'Hiver was a hit with my children. It is a long show - almost two hours long, with intermission only after the first hour. Despite this, there was no fidgeting in seats as they sat enthralled. The agile trapeze artists, the bumbling clowns, the spooky-looking harlequin, every part of this entertaining act was amazing. My son loved the tiger act - although he had to be assured more than once that the tigers would indeed stay behind the bars.

Exploring the pirate city of St. Malo, Brittany

From the distance, the walled city of St.Malo seems imposing, but once within its walls and on its cobbled narrow streets its quaintness is charmingly modest. With its 18th century buildings, and equally historic shops and restaurants one gets a sense of having traveled back in time. Indeed St. Malo's castle dates dates from the 14th and 15th centuries so we did go back in time somewhat. As always I still had to come up with a story to sell to my children - more to my six year old that my pre-teen- as the history offered by the tourist guide books doesn't beguile enough to warrant sufficient enthusiasm. This weekend's story was about the pirates.

Post-rentreé funk

I have been caught up in a post-rentrée funk that I'm trying to shake myself out of. The vacances came and went in a bit of a blur. I am now trying to fall into a rhythm as the weather slowly changes from warm and balmy, to chilly and grey.

My new mantra for this year: Write. Everyday. (Even if it is just a blog post). In the meantime sorting through photos and in the process re-living a bit of the summer holidays. Here are some pictures of an evening of fireworks at Château de Versailles - I am looking for inspiration anywhere.

Hope your vacances were great, your rentrée fairly easy and that  you've found your groove...I sure am trying.

Books: THE No.1 LADIES' DETECTIVE AGENCY by Alexander McCall Smith

Title: The No.1 Ladies' Detective Agency
Author: Alexander McCall Smith
Published: 2008
Genre: Fiction

This was a joy to read, and I wonder why it has taken me so long to read the Ladies' Detective Agency series. This debut to the immensely popular series is fast-paced and funny- and for a Southern African, the writing style and vocabulary were elements I could completely relate to. McCall Smith writes in a vernacular form which made my enjoyment of the book much richer.

Books: SIXTY MILLION FRENCHMEN CAN'T BE WRONG by Jean-Benoit Nadeau & Julie Barlow

Title: Sixty Million Frenchmen Can't Be Wrong
Authors: Jean-Benoit Nadeau and Julie Barlow
Published: 2003
Genre: Memoir


This is one of those books I pick up once in a while when I am astounded by how much I still do not understand about the French. Just when I think I get them, and I think - yes they are different in this way, or that - something happens and I am yet again drawn to some form of theory that will  help me understand the people of my host country.

Books: THE SENSE OF AN ENDING by Julian Barnes

Title: The Sense of an Ending
Author: Julian Barnes
Published: 2011
Genre: Novel

The Sense of an Ending is similar to the The Remains of the Day, which I read a month ago. Memory, reflection and the crafting of a story that begins with a mystery. I read and finished it in a fairly short time but the layers of interpretation to the story will probably require a second reading. It's about Tony Webster, a man well into his sixties who is now divorced and leads a quiet, if unexciting life. He is mysteriously bequeathed a journal from a school friend - and this sends him thinking back to his years at school when he met the charismatic Adrian Quinn; who was a mystery to them even back then.

Canal cruising in Paris

It was definitely not as interesting as the Seine cruises are, but it was good to learn about the Paris canals. We boarded the boat at Parc de la Villette - mistakenly thinking the boat would return there after the cruise. Note: It is a one-way trip between Parc de la Villette and  Musee d'Orsay. It ended up being a long day after that because we'd left the car at Parc de la Villette.
There were parts of the cruise that were interesting along Canal St. Martin, like seeing the urban regeneration happening along the canal in the 19th arrondissement.

Meanders in Fontainebleau

Yesterday was le 15 août - Assumption Day, and my family's one year, two day anniversary in France. I cannot believe that it has been a year already. Last year I was told, tongue-in-cheek that the day was meant as a rest day, to prepare people for the rentrée after the summer vacances. No, it's a religious holiday.  We decided to honour our anniversary with a trip to Fontainebleau. We had lunch then went to see the legendary château de Fontainebleau. I could not entice my kids to go for a tour of the castle.

The dotty collaboration of Yayoi Kusama and LV

"The much-anticipated collaboration between Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama and Marc Jacobs by Louis Vuitton..." reads the Wall Street Journal article on what's trending between art and design. Dotty? Absolutely.
I saw the window display last night, and Kusama's polka dots have taken over the windows of LV's flagship store. I enjoyed her  exhibition at the Pompidou a while back - I hadn't realised I'd be treated to a freebie so soon. Even last night, without the winding queues that are synonymous with LV, the display still drew quite the crowd. There were murmurings of "crazy", "interesting", "weird", "bizarre", "wonderful" abound as I made my way around the crowds to snap a few shots with my iPhone . If anything, the display is eliciting reactions - is that not what art is meant to do after all? Brand watching has just become more interesting.

Books: THE GLASS CASTLE by Jeannette Walls

Title: The Glass Castle
Author: Jeannette Walls
Published: 2005
Genre: Memoir

I was sitting in a taxi, wondering if I had overdressed for the evening, when I looked out of the window and saw Mom rooting through the Dumspter. It was just after dark. A blustery March wind whipped the steam coming out of the manholes, and people hurried along the sidewalks with their collars turned up. I was stuck in traffic two blocks away from the party where I was heading.
Mom stood fifteen feet away. She had tied rags around her shoulders to keep out the spring chill and was picking through the trash while her dog, a black-and-white terrier mix, played at her feet.

This is the opening paragraph of Jeannette Walls's book. I read the book a couple of years back  as a book club read, but decided to read it again last week. Let's be honest, some of those book club reads can be very rushed - especially when you realise that 'Oh, oh! Book Club next week and I haven't finished the book.' I felt that a repeat read was needed, and this time at my own pace.

A spot of tea at Mariage Frères

That time of the year again - bidding farewell to friends who are moving on. I had a farewell brunch with a friend at Mariage Frères yesterday. Mariage Frères is a tea house, purveyors of international teas, and a restaurant that serves delectable salads and fish dishes with flavours enhanced with their teas. The last time I was there I had a cabillaud in a beet and jasmine tea soup, delightful desserts, and as I discovered yesterday, they do a simple but perfect brunch.
There was iced tea; fresh juice; toasted brioche with a selection of tea-infused jams; and a savoury plate of scrambled eggs, salmon and prawns.

Simple indulgences at the smoking truck

Image source: www.student-food.com

After the past week's gastronomic hedonism,  I am running every morning to let my body know that we're home now - holiday's over. Halfway through my run today, my thoughts turned to how great a burger would taste after. Yes, I am a hopeless case - the thought of food always creeps into my thoughts somehow. So I got everyone out of the apartment and we scooted off to the food truck that's been getting rave reviews in Paris - Le Camion Qui Fume.

Gastronomy: Le Petit Roi de la Lune, Dijon

We got good food and service at Le Roi de la Lune. It was nestled between other restaurants, that looked just as good. It was the name that drew us; The Little King of the Moon. Prawns, scallops, a lamb and penne pasta with ham, topped with goat cheese. Rounded it off with a tarte tatin.
We sat outside, and even though it was fairly late, the pavement restaurants were still bustling. It was the perfect night to sit back, take in the evening, and enjoy the balmy summer weather. We were exhausted though,  and eager to get an early night for the trip home. We made our way back to the hotel taking in the sights of Dijon at night. A memorable, very memorable short stay in Dijon.

Sights and tastes of Dijon

We walked around the city, taking in the festive atmosphere at the Place de Ducs de Bourgoyne. Ahh summer...something about the good weather that turns the French into overly friendly and positive people. Savouring every moment of this rare bonhomie. After all the wandering, we settled for a late dinner at Le Petit Roi de la Lune. No disappointment there either. Ended the gastronomic tour with yet another great meal.

More images of Dijon here and here.

Sampling the Burgundy region at Le Bistrot

With Milan behind us we made our way to Dijon. From Chamonix to Milan, then Milan to Dijon I alternated between being the driver and passenger, so there are some interesting images taken on the way. The steppes on the hills with vineyards in Italy; the beautiful Mont Blanc mountains again; and then the rolling vineyards as we entered to Burgundy region. Although we were staying in Dijon for just two days, we decided on a day trip to Beaune after being regaled with tales of the tastes of Beaune - by the locals, yet again.

Delicious heaven at Cantina della Vetra, Milan

Faced with restaurant menus for four days, my kids zoned right in for the simplest Italian fare; pizza and pasta, and each time it was the best pizza or pasta ever! One restaurant that came recommended by friends, who had lived in Milan for four years, was Cantina della Vetra. Again that old adage that local knowledge trumps all. Cantina della Vetra is slightly off the tourist trail. We'd made reservations for a late dinner and were greeted by the friendly owner and given a very well-appointed table. From then on we were plied with everything from the cold meats platter, cheeses, fried gnocchi - then a spaghetti with cheese, ham and black pepper, tortellini with ham, perfectly grilled pork with apple and ginger sauce and creamy pea risotto. Verdict: We did not put a foot wrong when it came to food choices in Milan. Glad to be leaving, while I can still fit into my clothes - just barely.

Delighting the senses at Armani/Nobu, Milan

Source: www.styleflavours.com

Housed in the Armani Hotel, it's all minimalistic chic, lounge music and beautiful people. Tripadvisor ranks it at around 300 out of 2300 restaurants reviewed in Milan. So went with relatively-managed expectations. It is Nobu though, so that raises expectations somewhat. It was our night out without the kids, and we wanted to try something other than Italian cuisine. Started our evening with drinks in their lounge bar then moved upstairs to the restaurant.

Discovering the old city of Bergamo, Italy

A mere 40km north-east of Milan, the old city of Begamo is nestled atop a steep hill with  narrow, cobble-stoned pathways. It feels ancient. It is just the bustling tourists and ubiquitous Vespa motorcycles that remind one that it is a 17th century city still standing in the 21st century. We sat to have pizza some non-descript little pizzeria. We were lucky enough that they were even serving lunch, or late lunch, as we discovered that most places close after 2pm and only re-opne for dinner from around 7pm. Again, best pizza ever! Then we walked around the ancient city.

A meal with a view at La Darsena, Tremezzo

We walked in without reservations, and were fortunate enough to beat the lunch time crowd. Minutes after we were seated, the restaurant had filled up. Without reservations, lunch on the terrace was a far-fetched dream. It's no wonder, the view from the restaurant's terrace is stunning. It felt like another world as residents (or perhaps tourists with rented boats) drove up with their boats, moored them below the restaurant and came upstairs for lunch.

Beautiful Lake Como, Italy

A friend had warned me that two days in Milan would suffice, and this was accurate advice. Thanks Silvia. Milan is a large enough city, but even with the various monuments and abundant art galleries, there is not enough to keep one busy for days on end. More famous for its fashion scene, which was of very little interest to us, we decided to explore beyond its immediate borders. We stole away to Lake Como one day for Tremezzo. We chose Tremezzo because it's near the end of the lake so offered the opportunity to drive through the other villages dotted around the famous lake.

Coffee & gelato at Bianco Latte, Milan.

Bianco Latte became our go-to place for the great good coffee and creamy gelato (it sounds so much better calling it gelato and not ice cream when in Italy) during our stay in Milan. We weren't the only one charmed by the easy dining concept where we could either have our coffees and croissants at the counters or sit for a full meal in the restaurant. Stark white walls with charming additions of children's artwork on the walls - the owner's own perhaps? It was busy mostly in the mornings with the locals passing by for their coffee and croissants on -the-go and a smattering of tourists like us.

Places: Duomo di Milano, Italy

The Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano) is a sight to behold. Europe and its cathedrals: each with its architectural history; with its blunders in poor management; with its anecdotes that have now become urban legend (and part of the history); and with its dedication to one saint  or other. It's in the travels I am making on the continent that I see the role that religion played in the continent's history.
The Duomo is the fourth largest Christian cathedral in the world, and the largest in Italy. We went on a sweltering hot day - probably not a wise decision as the queue was long- but then again, it is one of the main tourist attractions in Milan.

La Calèche Restaurant, Chamonix

Between  Tripadvior, Time Out, and the myriad other online options at one's disposal for travel advice, local advice still trumps all. The desk manager at our  hotel recommended Le Cap Horn and Atmosphere. We decided on La Calèche instead. Le Cap Horn looked too quiet when we went, and Atmosphere  is down a flight of stairs and not above ground like the other restaurants. Atmosphere still has a riverfront view and terrace overlooking the mountains. It looked lovely, and even though it came highly recommended - with its own Michelin-rated chef- we decided on La Calèche. It looked more animated and on a warm summer evening like it was, we were caught up in the general mood above ground.

Chamonix

We stayed in Chamonix overnight on our way to Milan. I love road trips, but with kids they require a bit more planning to make them stress-free. Twelve years ago we'd pick a place, pack a bag, fill up the car and be on our way. The logistics around where we'd sleep and all that took care of themselves somehow. Now it's accommodation booked well in advance, trip mapped out carefully - do not exceed more than x hours of driving per day - and packing that happens the night before. I still love the anticipation and mild chaos that still ensues even with the careful planning.
Chamonix is a six hour drive from Paris. I thought after the last trip we would push the boundaries just a tad. We did well,  only in the last hour of the drive did the the chorus of 'are we there yet' become more frequent. Not being the driver this time I was able to indulge in my happy snapping along the way.
The pretty and quaint town against the beautiful snow-capped Mont Blanc mountains made the six hours of road worth it. Very many pictures of Chamonix here.

Places in Paris: Wine by One

Wine by One: Bar à vins, Caviste, Club de dégustation. We went for late drinks tonight and stayed for longer. If you enjoy your wines, try Wine by One. It is a wine bar, with a wide array of french wines, and a few very good South African wines on offer. A great concept that allows you to taste some of the best offerings in french wines and champagnes. The bar gives you a card that allows you to sample every wine in the house - with tasting size amounts or full glasses dispensed by the machines, according to preference. So if there's that 800 euro (!) bottle of wine you've been coveting - you can drink it, at a fraction of the price at Wine by One.
You get a pre-paid card that allows you to load more credit onto it so that your evening is simply a get-up-and-refill scenario, while you dig into the charcuterie platters on their menu. We went to have a quick drink with the intention to move on to dinner; we ended up staying for the rest of the evening - good wine, good cheese, ham and bread -  dinner was served.

Gastronomy in France: La Mère Poulard, Normandy

The restaurant is the very first into the village

La Mère Poulard's speciality is omelettes. The egg whippers sous chefs make quite a show of whipping the eggs that go into the famed omelettes. The egg whipping draws crowds. Seriously, a crowd gathers just within the entrance of the restaurant watching and photographing. Every now and then the maitre d' comes out to ask people to move outside.
We had lunch there on our last day in Mont Saint-Michel. The restaurant  has a children's menu that serves a small sized omelette or roast chicken. My children had the chicken and roast potatoes and I tried the omelette with scallops. Okay, it was a good omelette; the eggs had been beaten into submission by the sous chefs, and it was fluffy and tasty. It was a good experience, but value for money? Not quite.
La Mère Poulard is the franchise name of Anne Boutiaut, who owned the famous auberge in the 1800s. The branding is not only at the restaurant; the village trades on it with the sale of the famous La Mère Poulard's cookies.

Road trip to Normandy

Last week Wednesday I packed our bags, charged all phones, made sure the car had a full tank of petrol, and set out on a road trip. It was meant to be a stress-free couple of days to Normandy, starting in Mont Saint-Michel and ending in Deauville. An uneventful trip of four and a half hours, with some rain, beautiful scenery and cutesy villages- which all started to look the same after a while. Note to self: With the company I'm keeping, next time keep it to shorter distances per day.

Gardens and photography

We spent a day at Jardin des Tuileries last week. It was a busy day of the  Fête des Tuileries, the annual summer carnival, a bit of wandering around the gardens, a photo exhibition and a music show.
The  Fête is small, with carnival rides and food stalls selling the usual carnival fare - expect nothing healthy - but a great deal of fun for kids.
Wander around the gardens, and take in Ahae's free photo exhibition, which runs until mid August.

Books: A THOUSAND SPLENDID SUNS by Khaled Hosseini

Title: A Thousand Splendid Suns
Author: Khaled Hosseini
Published: 2007
Genre: Fiction


I read this a couple of years back and was reminded of it again when another blogger mentioned they had just read The Kite Runner, Hosseini's first book, and could not put down. I felt the same way about the Kite Runner, and immediately after reading it I went on to read A Thousand Splendid Suns. This for me was more of harrowing read. I enjoyed it even more than The Kite Runner.
It is a hauntingly sad story that attempts to explain the atrocities suffered by Afghani people after the Taliban came into power. More so, it is about the effect that Taliban rule had on women in Afghanistan. It left me outraged as I tried to fathom, the kind of life that the women of Afghanistan possibly faced under this regime.

Tombs and treasures

Today was the first day of the summer holidays for my kids. This means for the next ten weeks, yes that's right, ten weeks I have a six and twelve year old to keep busy. Unfortunately I can't just send them out to play, which was how I remember my school holidays growing up.
Fortunately for us there is no shortage of things to do in Paris- from the carnivals, to the museums, to the parks. I just have to find the balance between the interests of an active, rambunctious six year old and an inquisitive, introspective twelve year old. I had them draw up a list of what they want to do for the next two weeks - I am a firm believer in chunking - the first two weeks, then the next, then...
Kicked off with the Tutankhamen exhibit at Porte de Versailles. It was a hit with both. The exhibit shows the journey of discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb and treasures by the egyptologist Howard Carter in 1922.

Visiting with the dead at Père-Lachaise

Ordinarily I would not go to a cemetery unless it was absolutely unavoidable, but living in Paris makes you do strange things. I spent a good part of a morning reading headstones and photographing graves. Yep! I did.

Le Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is actually a tourist attraction listed as one of the places to visit by most tourist publications. I was on my way back from some place else when I realised that the metro line I was on stopped at Père-Lachaise. I thought, why not? And hopped off.
Père-Lachaise is the nickname given to this most famous of Parisian cemetries. It was officially called Le Cimetière de L'Est. It is located on the site of a former Jesuit retreat east of the city. The Who's Who of Parisian literary, political, and musical greats is buried here. Of course, it is the final resting place of Oscar Wilde that still draws the crowds.

Books: THE REMAINS OF THE DAY by Kazuo Ishiguro

Title: The Remains of the Day
Author: Kazuo Ishiguro
Published: 1989
Genre: Fiction

Kazuo Ishiguro's book, The Remains of the Day is told from the point of view of Stevens, an English butler who throughout his professional career served at Darlington Hall, a grand manor in a time of butlers and maids. It is set in 1950s, but fleets back and forth between these years and the those preceding the Second World War. The reader learns of Stevens's past and of the people he worked for and with, though flashbacks. Central to the story is the butler's relationship with the head housekeeper, Miss Kenton. Their relationship was professional and nothing else, but it soon becomes evident that the telling of the story is about reflection and to some extent regret.

Breaking bread at Notre Dame

This post was meant to be about Notre Dame Cathedral, then I realised that there were pictures I had taken over a month ago, during a bread festival that a friend and I happened upon.
The intention had been to see the Cathedral, and perhaps do the tour if the queues weren't too long. Unfortunately, or is it fortunately, my friend loves her bread as much as I do - so out went the cathedral tour, and in came the bread tasting. It was a great deal of fun; as we watched both the apprentice bakers and old hands go about their business of making bread. Even better was the sampling we got to do.
The cathedral was also just as interesting...from the outside.

Books: SORBONNE CONFIDENTIAL by Laurel Zuckerman

Title: Sorbonne Confidential
Author: Laurel Zuckerman
Published: 2007
Genre: Memoir

When I picked up Sorbonne Confidential I was expecting just an insight into life as a student at the Sorbonne, I got a lot less of this, but it was still an interesting read. The book is more about the course that Laurel Zuckerman enrolled for in her bid to become an English teacher.  The author does a great job explaining the intricate and complicated French education system, and this was particularly interesting as it is a very topical discussion in France. Proponents of the system are adamant that it should not be changed, whilst the reformists argue that it is a system that has not kept up with the rest of the world, and is producing a nation of thinkers rather than doers.

Books: PIGEON ENGLISH by Stephen Kelman

Title: Pigeon English
Author: Stephen Kelman
Published: 2011
Genre: Fiction

This was a humorous and easy read. Stephen Kelman's debut novel was shortlisted for the Man Booker for 2011 - a feat that even he was surprised by . It tells the story of eleven year old Ghanaian immigrant Harry Opoku who lives in inner-city London, in an area riddled by gang war and violence. Following the fatal stabbing of a fellow schoolmate by gang members in his neighbourhood, Harry, together with his best friend go about trying to solve the murder. Although told from Harry's eleven year old perspective, the sense of danger is nuanced but effectively done.

Pretty things at Baccarat

I am such a girl. I went for the pretty crystal. I could say I was curious about the process entailed in making the crystal, the history of the brand, and all that stuff that does not sound as shallow or frivolous, but it wouldn't be the whole truth. Yes, of course, I was curious about it all, but mostly I went to feast my eyes. I ended up doing more than just that though.
What began as an easy jaunt to the Musée Baccarat ended with lunch at the Cristal Room. When one thinks of Baccarat, crystal-tinted images of the luxurious brand come to mind. I have always associated it with just crystal, and only just learnt that the design house has, since 1993, been designing jewelry pieces alongside its highly coveted crystal ware.
After my tour of the museum, having had my fill of the gorgeous age-old pieces, I walked past the restaurant entrance, glanced at the menu, and made one of those impulsive decisions to stay for lunch.

Places in Paris: Basilique du Sacré Couer

When visiting Paris, there are always the usual places to see which must be ticked off and are popular with all kinds of tourists, the new and awestruck, and the old and jaded. The Basilique du Sacré Couer is one such place, together with some of the seedier parts of its neighbouring Montmartre. I overheard on a recent visit,  "I love this place, this is probably my tenth time - even last year I came". Assuming at the most this is someone that visits Paris every year, that would make it ten years running, or at the very least five years in all if they are bi-annual visitors.

Sacré Couer is like that; I don't know whether it's the juxtaposition of this sacred place alongside the delightfully rebellious Montmartre or just the sheer beauty of the church and it magnificent views that draws the crowds so much. I go often, there are sights in Paris that never get tired for me, and this is one of them.
Venture out, climb the flight of stairs - all 250 of them to the summit at butte Montmartre- the highest point in the city, and take in the panoramic views of Paris.