¡Adiós Barcelona, Bonjour Paris

I have brought back a few extra kilos and left plans to return again. Gaudi  will have to wait,  Catalan cuisine another time. I still want to play golf in Seville, enjoy the beaches in late fall and tour the monasteries, but all that will have to wait. I'm home.  Back to four degree (Celsius) weather...feels crispy- actually downright cold. But it's good to be back!

Gastronomy in Spain: Kharma, Barcelona

This came recommended by the barman at Zahara.  Newly-opened, it’s a restaurant with a lounge bar. The food was really good- I feel like I'm a paid reviewer with all these positive reviews I have been writing, but Barcelona's dining scence has not disappointed. Still have not tasted authentic Catalan cuisine though. The restaurant was virtually empty- worrying at first but from the Roquefort mousse, duck spring rolls with hoisin sauce to the lamb burger, duck in an orange sauce on a bed of juilenne vegetables and a mushroom risotto, all fears were allayed.

Touch & Feel at Cosmo Caixa, Barcelona

Always tricky striking the right balance between the ideal entertainment for adults and kids when on holiday. Took the kids to the Cosmo Caixa Science Museum for the morning. As is typical of some of the science museums we have visited, it encourages the sensory experience for children. They can touch and feel, prod, poke and twist to their hearts' content. They enjoyed it. The 45 minute long 3D Show on Darwin's Natural Selection was a definite winner. It's always good when you can combine educational and fun in one phrase.

Gastronomy in Spain: Carpe Diem, Barcelona

CDLC, Carpe Diem Lounge Restaurant and Lounge Club in Port Olimpíc combined all my favourite things- lounge music of course, chilled wine and fantastic food. We have not been disappointed in our choices of restaurants so far, but for one exception not even worth a mention. 
Buddha carvings- the decor is all circa 2000- think Buddha Bar. Lounge music. Chilled wine. Great food. Sun on my face. I could have stayed the whole afternoon but we had the kids in tow and our five year old did not quite see the appeal of lounging all afternoon. Pity.
Offerings are Mediterranean and Asian dishes with Arabian and Morrocan touches.  A sushi starter and Wagyu beef carpaccio.

Salvador Dalí in his home country

Funny how I am more than happy to be the happy tourist in another city and not in the one I live in. Completely played to my role, camera and map in hand, gazing in amazement on what may appear to be random scenes to the locals and an overuse of my basic Spanish...Ola!
Pictures here. Then there was a visit to the Dalí  museum on Carrer dels Arcs, thought to mix up all the eating with a bit of culture.  It consisted of the private collection of his sculptures, drawings and sketches as well as a collection of photographs taken of this surrealist artist. I was more fascinated by photographs of this very eccentric artist though.
Note: The Dalí Museum in Figueres, the artist's hometown, is said to be one of the best exhibits of the artist's work. 

Wandering eye in Barcelona

'Churros & Chocolate' caught my eye

I tend to take fairly random photos when discovering new cities- or so they may seem until months later I see an image I captured on camera and it reminds me again of my trip - making my trips down memory lane even more memorable. Today we spent a fair amount of time walking around, taking random images and discovering Barcelona.
Here are a few images of Barcelona from my perspective.

Mojitos, tapas and sunshine

Being in Spain I feel like I should probably be having Sangria, but the Mojito has made a comeback onto my list of favourite cocktails for this week. Had some tapas at the waterfront today after Part 2 of our morning on the Bus Turistic. Kept it fairly simple, but it was surprisingly alright.  I say surprisingly because I am always wary of places that seem to cater strictly to the tourist. The food could have been arbitrary for all I cared – the sun my face was yet again all I needed.

Barcelona beckons

The Sagrada Familia

I would have been glad to just sit at a sidewalk cafe somewhere, people watch and feel the sun on my face. We escaped Paris for a few days to take in some sun and Barcelona did not disappoint. Did the tourist thing yesterday, the Barcelona Bus Turistic, Part 1.
Has early drinks at a lounge bar called Zahara near the Marina where we got a recommendation for Kharma, which was fantastic.
Loving the feel of the sun, and enjoying friendly Spanish hospitality- Mission: Savour Catalan Cuisine before we leave.

Zahara Lounge Bar, Barcelona

Friday night was our night of discovery. After our day out doing the tourist thing on the Bus Turistic, we had sundowners at Zahara- a lounge bar on the waterfront- not the glossy side, more the worn and weathered and less touristy. Had well-made mojitos, wine and listened to lounge music. I’ve said before that cocktails, sun and lounge music are the perfect chill out combination for me. Ola Barcelona!

Zahara Lounge Bar

Pg. Juan de Borbon 69

Barcelona 08003

Tel: +34 932 213 765

Wishing you happy holidays!

Merry Xmas, Happy Holidays, Happy Hanukkah...whatever it is that brings you together with your loved ones this time of the year. Do celebrate it well and hope it's a great one!

For us it will be a crispy one. Gave up a sunny, braai-filled, golf-playing South African summer this year for a chilly, vin chaud-fuelled, chestnut-roasting European winter. I do love the lighting and gaiety that comes with it all though.

Joyeux Noël!

Books: THE THING AROUND YOUR NECK by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie

Title: The Thing Around Your Neck
Author: Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
Published: 2009
Genre: Fiction

I read this book in two days...I do enjoy short stories at times, it makes the progress faster and there is always the next story to look forward to if you are not particularly engrossed by one story. I first read Purple Hibiscus three years ago and fell in love with Adichie's writing. The Thing Around Your Neck is a collection of stories previously published in various publications. It tells of immigrant Nigerians, professionals, students, wives carving their way in the land of opportunity, America.

Feeling culinary

Yesterday I made  gravlax, a salad with a balsamic vinaigrette, magret de canard with honey and balsamic vinegar and dark chocolate fondant with chestnut cream for lunch. It was fantastic.
Yes, with a bit (ok, a whole lot) of help of course.
Spent the morning in a cooking class with some wonderful people, working through a simple yet ultimately delicious menu. Thanks Valerie for organising!
Learnt the value of using fresh ingredients with minimum spices for great taste.
This led me to a further search for cooking classes...should you not quite yet be ready for the Cordon Bleu Institute or Alain Ducasse's Ecole de Cuisine. There are many, varied and in English. Here is a brief list,  of the ones I have good recommendations of;
Cook'n with Class , La Cuisine Paris, and Promenades Gourmandes.

Gastronomy in Bastille, Paris

A month ago, before the chill started creeping in we tried Le Bastille, right opposite Place de la Bastille in the 4th. A pleasant surprise all round as it was the first restaurant we sat down at. The fact that it's right in front of the vibrant, popular and touristy square, I had half expected it to be over-priced and mediocre. It wasn't. This is often the case for us on those afternoons out, no prior planning, which often results in hasty choices being made because by that time everyone's starving. Pretty much hit-or-miss with regard to the restaurant selection - so far though there have been a lot more hits in our restaurant roulette.
Le Bastille serves up bistro food, so anything from croque monsieurs and salads as light meals to duck, beef, lamb. The service was good, the waiters friendly, atmosphere sunny and cheerful- it was a rare late autumn sunny afternoon. After which it was a  a stroll around the immediate neighbourhood and early evening drinks at a funky little bar call Le Préau, where I sampled my very first piscine - champagne served up with ice- Shock! Horror! A very summer drink not to be repeated again...why ruin a great glass of champagne by putting ice in it - even if the ice is made from the champagne itself. All in all, a great afternoon to add to the memory books discovering the 4th & 11th arrondissements.

The one where I'm a tourist

The nonchalance of the French is the image I have been going for for the last three months. I'm not entirely sure why, I just know that I did not want to look like a tourist. The accent when I speak still comes across as obviously foreign so my best bet was not looking like one- mind you with the camera I'm always lugging around, not sure I was succeeding at all. Well, tossed it all aside last week and decided that I need to see Paris from  a different perspective, not to that mention I got tired of being nonchalant when seeing the Eiffel Tower all lit up, or the bleu, blanc et rouge of the french flag billowing through the arch of L'Arc de Triomphe, when what I really wanted to do was to squeal and point with glee. I still stand and gawk in awe at boulangerie windows - in fact there is a Lenôtre in my neighbourhood that has become my favourite place to visit -to just stand and stare. I cannot feign the nonchalance of the French anymore, I am still in awe of this city.
Hopped onto the sight-seeing bus of  Les Cars Rouges last week. It was a real treat to unreservedly indulge the tourist in me. Took some great pictures, waved at the locals from my perch at the top (yes, I did) and got an entirely different view of the city. It was refreshing to just be le Sud Af in France.

Images from my morning here.

Books: THE TIGER'S WIFE by Téa Obreht

Title: The Tiger’s Wife
Author: Téa Obreht
Published: 2011
Genre: Fiction

In the Tiger's Wife, Téa Obreht retells the story of a tiger that escapes from a zoo during the Balkans war. Told through the protagonist, Natalia the story is both allegorical and entertaining enough. The sudden and strange circumstances surrounding the news of her grandfather's death, a medical doctor like herself, leave Natalia following the path her grandfather may have taken in the latter days of his life as a way to try and uncover answers to the mystery around his death.

The Art Freaks

This exhibition has been on since July- and on my 'to see' list from around the same time.
Olaf Breuning has re-worked renowned artists' works in installations that hang from the ceiling of Palais de Tokyo museum.
Do not go with any pre-conceived notions of garnering some socio-political insight - go just to see, and maybe enjoy in the process. He is an artist who eschews the pretension that sometimes inhabits the art world. He simply makes art for the visual pleasure- and stresses that endlessly in this interview.

It was interesting, in a good way and also just plain bizarre - as art can be. Was I moved? More intrigued, if perhaps to read up more on what makes this artist tick.

'Neither Black Nor White' Art Exhibition

If you're in Accra next week from Wed 30th Nov - Sat 3rd Dec, Studio Kurtycz has an exhibition on titled "Neither Black Nor White", with works by Anna Kurtycz, Isaac Konney, Kelvin Haizel, Nii Obodai and Rudek van der Helm.

A print-making demonstration will be help on Saturday at 5pm.
Sad to be missing this - do go and enjoy.

A Wonder? Of course it is!

Do we really need the New7Wonders organisation to tell us how wonderful our mountain is? Not! But it's great that they've noticed.
Two weeks ago  Table Mountain made it onto the list of seven of the provisional results to the New Seven Wonders of Nature list; not a mean feat to be selected from  a draw of 440 locations, 220 countries and 28 candidates. This came right off the back of a french class in which one of my classmates was speaking with pride about the wonders of her country; Venezuela. I never actually ever do that, unless asked - and I do find it interesting that she can wax lyrical unprovoked just like that. This was also in the same week I met some South Africans who were not particularly proudly South African. That I can never understand, but that's for another post entirely. All this was in the week in which a few not-so-friendly-French-encounters led to a not-very-happy-South African-expat. I was feeling extremely homesick ; then the seventh Wonder announcement and a morning spent poring over South African websites - cyber therapy if you will. Felt better after, and now calling all positive South Africans (and non-South Africans) to share something positive about South Africa today, on blogs, email, whatever. Let's spread the wonder!

Maori at Musée du Quai Branly

If you have seen the All Blacks performing the haka before a game, you will understand my fascination with the Maori culture. I must confess, I am not a rugby fan - my enthusiasm for the sport only ever emerges if the Boks are playing in some international final- and even then it's the camaraderie around the matches that enthuses, not the actual game itself. I am discovering that it is a definite followed sport in France though. That aside, I will go through all the pre-game rituals; drinks? check! snacks? check! remote? check - just to see the haka in any game, Boks playing or not. 
Then came the movie Whale Rider and and that just fed my interest further. Today I made it a point to get to Musée du Quai Branly early to take in the current Maori exhibition. I was not disappointed.

Brand watching

The strange phenomenon that is branding. Walked past Louis Vuitton on the Champs Elysees on saturday and the masses had gathered, yet again to see, buy, touch the apparel, handbags that are LV. Winter, Spring, Summer or Fall - it is alway the same. A perfectly executed and managed brand LV, screams of luxury and conspicuous consumption, suggestive of celebrity and exclusivity. Or is it?

Gastronomy: Le Sud, Paris

My children were mopping up the remains off their plates and declaring it the best food ever. Hunger will do that to you...it had been a long day and we'd gone to Le Sud for a light-ish meal. Ended up being a delicious lamb stew, with pasta and rich gravy. A taste of Provence, which was just what we needed that day. I was particularly impressed with the restaurant's lack of a kiddies menu. I have written before about the fact that I am not a fan of greasy, fried chicken, meat, mystery meat in any form served up as food for children. Le Sud has half portions from the main menu as the children's menu and they loved it!

Marché de Noël on Ave. de Champs Elysées

We started out early - well, past midday and the weather was beautiful. There were already throngs of people at the marché, simply strolling along, sampling the hot wine - of which there were many stalls, having their snacks on the sidewalk food courts. It had a strangely commercial feel to it though- it is after all the Champs Elysées though-  for authenticity I have been told that there is no other than the Strasbourg Market .

Robbed of Matisse, Cézanne & Picasso

Armed with my ticket from yesterday, I set out early for the Matisse, Cézanne, Picasso: The Steins Collect  at the Grand Palais - only to be rudely told to come back at 13h30. What!? Turns out the jumele ticket I bought restricts one's visits to certain hours only. Now, if only that kind gentleman at the ticket counter had explained this time restriction...best I get that french up to speed sooner than later, to avoid such vital communication being lost in translation. Irony is I missed the exhibit because I had a french class.

'Tis the season

It is grey outside. Gone are the long, balmy evenings; a far memory the Indian summer that drew itself out to the end of October. It is now grey. Even the crowds outside the famed Louis Vuitton store on Avenue Champs Elysées are no more - Ladurée looked stark and empty, I guess nothing was drawing the crowds out into the cold for their delightful macarons. Abercrombie & Fitch; I have yet to fully understand what it is this store sells that draws the crowds so much- but from what I've read and seen, great marketing and branding can take a product a long way. Even this store did not have its usual, winding queues. The models were still there though - decked out in their winter gear, ready to welcome would-be shoppers.

Books: LYRICS ALLEY by Leila Aboulela

Title: Lyrics Alley
Author: Leila Aboulela
Published: 2011
Genre: Fiction

I am going to come across sounding unimaginative I know, but Lyrics Alley is lyrical. A slow-paced introduction to the extended dynastic Abuzeid family leads one to identifying with the characters almost immediately. Slow-paced as the introduction is, the turn of events as the plot gives way is anything but. Lyrics Alley reads both like historical fiction - which it is not, and a dramatic work of fiction you want to sink your teeth into.
The plot centres around Mahmoud Abuzeid, a Sudanese whose life is a mélange of cultures, traditional Sudanese and modern Egyptian. Torn between the two worlds, he remains unavoidably and staunchly tied to his origins and his family in Sudan yet socially ambitious and yearning for acceptance in his new world. It is a story of families, love and heartbreak.

Steve Jobs - VISIONARY.

Tributes extolling the genius  of  Steve Jobs have been and will continue to be written following his death yesterday, and every one of them will not be enough. But one recent one put it more aptly than most..."he was the closest friend you've never met".  I couldn't agree more.
Genius knows no bounds and this was illustrated by the man who dared to inspire the imagination of not only the pre-schoolers, but generations after in  equal measure. My son was almost in tears this morning when he overheard our discussion. He who, only last week, was overheard telling his friend that..."Steve Jobs is Apple!".
My daughter was a tad more eloquent: "Steve Jobs rocks Mommy!"
Without a doubt, he did.

Nuit Blanche

It's called Sleepless Night and is meant to be an all-nighter; from 7pm to 7am. We tried last night. We went- we saw- and we were back home by midnight. Considering the company, aged 5 and 11 - we did not do too badly.
Nuit Blanche is in its 10th year and is an all-night art exhibition and festival in the Hôtel de Ville, Montmartre, Pigalle and the St. Georges areas. Contemporary art installations, sculptures, exhibits can be viewed all night. The Pompidou Centre opened to the crowds free of charge from 9pm until 1am. Stands were set up where we picked up maps and followed our own course. The metro, lines 11 and 12 were open for the entire night between certain stops. Next year, we are going without the kids- it was fun but a bit crazy for them, and for us equally as we were too worried we might lose them in the crowds. Saw a Jazz band play, drummers and dancers in the streets, grafitti artists and numerous installations.

Prepare yourself for the unexpected

This is what I woke up to today. From last week, the building across our apartment has been undergoing renovations, so my view has been scaffolding, safety nets and builders going about their business.
Then this morning, this.
Of all the buildings, in all the cities, in all the world... I love it .  A reminder of home just outside my window. South African tourism taking advantage of the expansive Paris apartment faces. Well done! Check the website for the possibilities.

The new scenic view from my living room...

Gastronomy: Lounging at Les Sabias

Lounge music, I guess I am just a sucker for lounge music. Evokes images of chilled out cocktails on friday nights, lazy saturday afternoon barbecues and  late sunday lunches. The association is always culinary. Sundays have become either late morning brunches, or late lunches, when not actually making making lunch from the sunday market bounty (a whole other post yet to be written there). For now, we are still fairly new in our city so on a voyage of discovery on the restaurant front.
Les Sabias, in Neuilly did not disappoint. It was the lounge music playing in the background that got me.

Chinese Artists in Paris

Writers, artists, designers, foodies and your average francophile are drawn to Paris by one thing-  Inspiration. There is something about the city that is deemed a mecca of inspiration for the creatives, and it has always been the case. In some cases , destination Paris was a result of political and social circumstances forcing people to seek out refuge in a democratic, liberal country that not only allowed but encouraged their creativity. Chinese artists made their way to Paris in the early 1900s, with the formation of the Franco-Chinese Education Society in 1915 and establishment of the Franco-Chinese Institute in Lyon in 1921, encouraging further influx. The current exhibit at Musée Cernuschi was refreshing in that it revealed artists that not only drew inspiration from the city, but worked that inspiration around the art forms that were familiar to them, lithographs, ink on paper and silk as canvas.

Gastronomy: Le Bistro de Neuilly, Neuilly-sur-Seine

Discovering my neighbourhood has never been such a pleasure.
Le Bistro de Neuilly is on rue du Commandant Pilot in Neuilly-sur-Seine. A very quiet street. The restaurant is small, but has really friendly hosts, and it was apparent that the diners were mainly regulars and of course us, the newbies. Jazz music playing in the background, every so often there was laughter and dancing from the back to a popular song - it is that kind of place. Young families, older couples, young couples.
The food was great! I have yet to write up on a bad experience - actually, I will not, if the food's not good, I won't recommend a place.

Fête de la gastronomie

While I was busy walking around yesterday doing my best impression of 'tourist with camera' I had completely forgotten it was fête de la gastronomie. Launched in May this year, it is the inaugural event that looks to promote French cooking - not forgetting that we are talking of cuisine that this year won its status on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Yes, that is how seriously the French take their cuisine.

'Chasing Shadows' with Santu Mofokeng

I almost missed this, but it is still on for two more days. Santu Mofokeng, renowned South African photographer has an exhibit on until Sunday 25th Sept. at Jeu de Paume titled, 'Chasing Shadows'.
In my month here I have become used to all things French, then this afternoon I was transported back to SA through a series of Black & White photos in works spanning 30 years. He started his career capturing images pre- and post-apartheid in South Africa, but moved away to document religion and its practice by black urban people; practices that were a mélange of christian and pagan ceremonies, in cities, mountains and at times in caves, reserved solely for worship.
Must see, if for nothing else than his landscape images, yes, I know, landscapes.

The splendour of Palais Garnier

I went on a tour of the Opera house; Palais Garnier on Monday. This is home to one of France's most splendid historical artchitecture. Home of the Opera and Ballet and a name synonymous with French culture, it was founded by Louis XIV in 1669, who was not only an actor but also a talented ballet dancer. The Opéra Garnier is the thirteenth theatre to house the Opera, and was designed by Charles Garnier, who due to a bureaucratic error resulting in a missing invitation, on the eve of the opening of the building was the only person that had to pay for his ticket.

What makes a neighbourhood?

In Paris most neighbourhoods are defined by firstly, whether they are on the left or right bank, which determines whether there are leanings of conservative or liberal, bourgeois or bohemian, artsy, tourist hot-spots or not; and then by the usual determinants, of race - yes, dare I say it in the country that defines itself around its liberté, égalité, fraternité even race will always be there - and religious affiliation, although to a lesser extent. When you find yourself in certain neghbourhoods race does become a determinant, the 18th is populated by a predominantly African population; Chinatown in the 13th, and the Marais district is often referred to as the Jewish part of Paris. Even the banlieu's are known for the most part as home to immigrant (or not) North African populations.

Gastronomy: La Villa Corse, Paris

Here I was thinking that Wanderlust! would gradually move away from its food theme...Had a fantastic lunch at La Villa Corse in the 16th a couple of weeks ago. Quiet neighbourhood the 16th, fairly upmarket, in fact very upmarket and très bourgeois - but it has a wide offering of restaurants from the formal and expensive to the more casual and inexpensive. La Villa Corse is somewhere in the middle, not exactly brasserie dining but won't break the bank either. With a lounge bar, a library with books laden on dark wood shelves and a formal lounge- it speaks of long lingering dinners, but lunch worked just as well though.

C'est la rentrée!

Today my kids went back to school- after almost two and a half months off! Am I the only person who thinks that the summer school holidays are far too long?
They have been fortunate enough to enjoy their holidays in three different countries- Ghana, South Africa and France; and I have been quite the organizer of 'Things to do with kids between 6 and 11'...in fact that's what my next post should be about-there's been enough organization in these quarters. Despite all the activities across the three countries, by last week they just wanted to get back to school, or in their case, start their new school.
I experienced my first dose of 'the madness of the school supplies shopping'.

Brunch, carnival and late night dinners

Yesterday, armed with a good review from Oubruncher; literally 'where to brunch' a website dedidated solely to great places to have brunch in Paris, we made our way to the 8th. Le Quai was not our first choice but after numerous attempts to make reservations at our initial choices - and being told that there was nothing available before 2pm (for brunch!) we decided to take the 2pm.

Bonjour à tous!

We are here! Arrived in Paris this morning - feeling excited, not to mention anxious about the new life. Staying in temporary accommodation until next week, then settling in to make this city our home. In the meantime gorging on croissants beurre, baguettes slathered in butter and creamy cheeses. Note to self: Must make plan to walk at least 30 minutes daily.
Champagne is reasonable compared to what we are used to paying (both in SA and Ghana) and a bagful of groceries this morning did set us back some euros; but I can gladly live on bread and cheese for the moment.
Wanderlust! has a whole new location, and from scouring the numerous blogs on Paris, restaurants reviews may not be the main focus going forward. From Paris by Mouth to The Paris Kitchen, the restaurant scene is pretty much covered. What will be the focus? Well, for now it's definitely back to the drawing board. In the meantime, will be looking for places offering french lessons in order to bring the french up to speed; must be able to order those delightful french dishes like a pro by year end. It's always about the food!

Walking with elephants

Another week gone by, and the countdown to leaving sunny but cold, oh so cold SA, about to get underway. In the meantime, we took in the Elephant Sanctuary at Hartbeespoort Dam. One takes for granted how truly magnificent these creatures are, but as majestic as they are, there's something rather pitiful when we see them in enclosures. The Hartbeespoort sanctuary is one of three Elephant Sanctuaries countrywide, with one in Hazyview (Near the Kruger National Park) and another in Plettenberg Bay (along the Garden Route).

Snow in the South

Photo courtesy: www.news24.com

Allow me a moment to whinge...I am freezing and absolutely hating the weather right now! There. Now that's out of the way...for now. Thought I'd keep doing what I do in keeping the pounds at bay, but somehow managed to make it to the gym only twice, just twice in two weeks. Oh Ghana how I miss thee...
Nothing more disheartening than the cool crisp of a winter morning, with just the right amount of bite to remind that you that you ain't in the tropics no more.
It snowed in the Eastern Cape and Kwazulu-Natal and yes, we have not seen any snow in Gauteng, but I am sure there's a cold front that's crept in...IT IS FREEZING. My friends are at a point where they're turning a deaf ear to my complaints, my kids think I'm over-reacting, and pretty much everyone seems to think the weather is par for the course at this time of the year...is it? Global warming has not lent a hand?

Snakes and crocodiles!

The Green Mamba at close range, yes with reinforced double glass in between me and the snake but still at close range, is a terrifying creature. Just the knowledge of the slow and painful death its bite can induce is chilling enough on its own. Behind the glass they appeared harmless though.  Croc City in Fourways, a stone's throw away from the Lion Park was all reptiles and birds. I found it very odd that in the middle of this place that is all about reptiles, there are rabbits hopping here and there, and peacocks strutting about.

Places in SA: The Lion Park, Johannesburg

Lions in the city

We have just over three weeks in SA, and have a carefully drawn up schedule for things to do with the kids; some we have done before, when they were much younger, some are definitely deserving of second visits now that they are older, a bit more engaging and can ask interesting questions. Nothing worse than enthusing about something of interest to a disinterested three year who would much rather find himself at the nearest jungle gym.  The Lion Park in Fourways was first on the list.

What will you do with your 67 minutes?



Photo Courtesy of: http://www.wikipedia.com/

It is Nelson Mandela International Day today and we are not only celebrating the former President's 93rd birthday but  also becoming a nation (or world, it is an International Day) of do-gooders. The day is now not only  going to be a commemoration of Madiba's birthday but also a day to get involved in communities, or whatever works for you in the 'giving-back' department; effectively "be the change...Madiba style" - all that is required is that you give just 67 minutes of your time today to a good cause. Great concept definitely, especially for its association to man lauded worldwide and known for 'giving back' to an entire nation. Happy Birthday Madiba!

Bidding Farewell to Ghana

In the midst of the flurry of activity around packing away our three years here; as well as the farewell teas, lunches and dinners, I almost forgot to write my very last post from Ghana. I am already thinking of how much I will miss the taste of shito with fried yam and kelewele on my tongue. A farewell gift from friends is a recipe book of Ghanaian dishes - which I now have to learn to perfect because according to my kids I can no longer pass off my attempts as Ghanaian with a South African twist, as I have been doing.

Thank you for hosting us. I take with me memories of the sights and sounds: Makola; Agbogboloshie; Cape Coast; Kokrobite; and that Jamestown Castle. I will always remember: crowded La Beach; the Volta River; the castles steeped in history; incessant hooting; aggressive tro-tro drivers; and the fruit - yes definitely the sweet taste of Cape Coast pineapple. Not forgetting: the hawkers selling everything from groundnuts to puppies; the hot sticky weather incredibly I will miss that too; the vibrant colours of kente at a durbar; pride in a culture rich in history; grilled tilapia with banku; the motorcycles of Tamale; and that very Ghanaian greeting Akwaaba.


I bid you adieu ~ Yεbεhyia.

Wandering eye: La Défense art

These sculptures show that here is clearly more to La Défense than its concrete jungle persona.

Jazz in Accra

Last weekend was the Miles Davies Tribute Concert at the Golden Tulip and this weekend +233 - I love that they've taken a very unique country code and created a very cool Jazz spot in Accra - is hosting its very first Jazz Festival, to run over three days.
Last night was the debut night and it drew a sizeable mixed crowd; hope it draws an even bigger crowd in the next two days. If anything go for their kebabs and the music. If you're a Jazz Aficionado go for Gyedu Blay Ambolley, The Sound Factory, Kwame Yeboah & The Ohea BeYeYa Band and others as they play under the cool evening sky. Last night Marion Meadows, the saxophonist, gave the crowds a teaser of what he has in stall for the next two days- and it promises to be great. Cover charge is GHc40.00

Femme Power!

My daughter, the feminist. In a random discussion a couple of days ago about recent age-appropriate sites she'd been on, she was outraged and confused that one said site had informed her that she could not start a club called "Femenists" (sic). "I just wanted to start a club that would discuss female leaders and how they inspire women in society today." Clearly this was a bit too much for 'the site' moderators; after all, revolutions have started more innocuously.

Yesterday however 'the site' approved her Club and she was propelled again on her mission to recruit members and get the discussion going. A small win for an eleven-year old young lady, but today it was huge win for Femme Power as Christine Lagarde was appointed the IMF's first woman Managing Director.

Books: SHANGHAI TANGO by Jin Xing

Title: Shanghai Tango

Author: Jin Xing

Published: 2005

Genre: Memoir



This was a quick read in between the flurry of activity typical of this time of the year. Wishing I had an e-reader given all the books I want to read this Summer...Shanghai Tango is the memoir of a prima ballerina; Jin Xing who danced for the Shanghai Ballet and other prestigious Ballet Companies both in the US and Europe. It is a story told from a very detached voice about a young boy, who is recruited into the People's Liberation Army Dance Corps as a soldier and a dancer at the age of nine. He becomes a celebrated, internationally-acclaimed dancer who goes on to become the first person in China to undergo a full sex-change operation. 

Ewe Kente

I ventured out to Burma Camp; the Army Barracks in Accra last week, to seek out the weavers of Ewe Kente. I met with Ahiagble Bob Dennis who has written a book about Ewe Kente; The Pride of Ewe Kente and runs a small shop in Burma Camp.It's a large compound with about four weavers working on the intricate-looking looms the Kente is woven on.
The most noticeable difference between Ewe and Ashanti Kente is in the use of colour. Ewe Kente, can best be described as 'calm' according to Ahiagble, predominantly using muted colours; yellow, red, green, black, white and blue whereas Ashanti Kente; described as 'cheerful' in colour uses the magenta, yellow, bright green and red colours.
As with Ashanti kente, there is symbolism and meaning in the patterns of the woven cloth.

Declaration of Origin

Finding a good steak in Accra is no longer a case of playing Russian roulette in the culinary search. Restaurants have now caught on to proudly declaring the origin of their meat. Why? Because beef reared on fish produce, a very common thing in Ghana, cannot be labelled 'Surf and Turf' - just unpalatable.

This was not always the case though - a year and a half ago you pretty much went in blind when ordering a steak in a restaurant - wondering as you mulled over the filet on the menu whether it would taste of meat this time or have the slight whiff of fish as well. It took me a while to realise that the whiff of fish in my meat was not the chef using the same pan to make the sauce for my steak and frying the fish for my companion. The whiff was indeed in the meat.

Now restaurant menus have the source of their beef printed clearly and proudly...mainly you will find South African Beef and Argentinian and the odd Californian Beef. The French Restaurants; like Le Tandem remained partial to their home countries' produce, but now other nations' bovine exports are featuring heavily on their menus.
Unfortunately up until last month, South African beef had been off the menu in Ghana due to the latest outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease (FMD) there. The Netherlands has been the main source for Stellar Catering- my trusted supplier of South African beef. Other restaurants that now serve South African beef are:

• Rhapsody's 
• Safari Restaurant
• The former El Gaucho Argentinian Restaurant in Osu.

Everything Art

The Letters from Africa exhibition which has been on at the Brazil House in Jamestown (Old Accra) comes to a close today. I missed it - not from a lack of effort - I went in the morning with a friend and found that it was only open in the afternoons...it was not an entirely wasted trip, the permanent exhibition is interesting also. The images recount the history of the Tabon people in Ghana. Returning slaves from Brazil. It is all explained; from the Portuguese names to the cuisine.