Visiting with the dead at Père-Lachaise

Ordinarily I would not go to a cemetery unless it was absolutely unavoidable, but living in Paris makes you do strange things. I spent a good part of a morning reading headstones and photographing graves. Yep! I did.

Le Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is actually a tourist attraction listed as one of the places to visit by most tourist publications. I was on my way back from some place else when I realised that the metro line I was on stopped at Père-Lachaise. I thought, why not? And hopped off.
Père-Lachaise is the nickname given to this most famous of Parisian cemetries. It was officially called Le Cimetière de L'Est. It is located on the site of a former Jesuit retreat east of the city. The Who's Who of Parisian literary, political, and musical greats is buried here. Of course, it is the final resting place of Oscar Wilde that still draws the crowds.

Books: THE REMAINS OF THE DAY by Kazuo Ishiguro

Title: The Remains of the Day
Author: Kazuo Ishiguro
Published: 1989
Genre: Fiction

Kazuo Ishiguro's book, The Remains of the Day is told from the point of view of Stevens, an English butler who throughout his professional career served at Darlington Hall, a grand manor in a time of butlers and maids. It is set in 1950s, but fleets back and forth between these years and the those preceding the Second World War. The reader learns of Stevens's past and of the people he worked for and with, though flashbacks. Central to the story is the butler's relationship with the head housekeeper, Miss Kenton. Their relationship was professional and nothing else, but it soon becomes evident that the telling of the story is about reflection and to some extent regret.

Breaking bread at Notre Dame

This post was meant to be about Notre Dame Cathedral, then I realised that there were pictures I had taken over a month ago, during a bread festival that a friend and I happened upon.
The intention had been to see the Cathedral, and perhaps do the tour if the queues weren't too long. Unfortunately, or is it fortunately, my friend loves her bread as much as I do - so out went the cathedral tour, and in came the bread tasting. It was a great deal of fun; as we watched both the apprentice bakers and old hands go about their business of making bread. Even better was the sampling we got to do.
The cathedral was also just as interesting...from the outside.

Books: SORBONNE CONFIDENTIAL by Laurel Zuckerman

Title: Sorbonne Confidential
Author: Laurel Zuckerman
Published: 2007
Genre: Memoir

When I picked up Sorbonne Confidential I was expecting just an insight into life as a student at the Sorbonne, I got a lot less of this, but it was still an interesting read. The book is more about the course that Laurel Zuckerman enrolled for in her bid to become an English teacher.  The author does a great job explaining the intricate and complicated French education system, and this was particularly interesting as it is a very topical discussion in France. Proponents of the system are adamant that it should not be changed, whilst the reformists argue that it is a system that has not kept up with the rest of the world, and is producing a nation of thinkers rather than doers.

Books: PIGEON ENGLISH by Stephen Kelman

Title: Pigeon English
Author: Stephen Kelman
Published: 2011
Genre: Fiction

This was a humorous and easy read. Stephen Kelman's debut novel was shortlisted for the Man Booker for 2011 - a feat that even he was surprised by . It tells the story of eleven year old Ghanaian immigrant Harry Opoku who lives in inner-city London, in an area riddled by gang war and violence. Following the fatal stabbing of a fellow schoolmate by gang members in his neighbourhood, Harry, together with his best friend go about trying to solve the murder. Although told from Harry's eleven year old perspective, the sense of danger is nuanced but effectively done.

Pretty things at Baccarat

I am such a girl. I went for the pretty crystal. I could say I was curious about the process entailed in making the crystal, the history of the brand, and all that stuff that does not sound as shallow or frivolous, but it wouldn't be the whole truth. Yes, of course, I was curious about it all, but mostly I went to feast my eyes. I ended up doing more than just that though.
What began as an easy jaunt to the Musée Baccarat ended with lunch at the Cristal Room. When one thinks of Baccarat, crystal-tinted images of the luxurious brand come to mind. I have always associated it with just crystal, and only just learnt that the design house has, since 1993, been designing jewelry pieces alongside its highly coveted crystal ware.
After my tour of the museum, having had my fill of the gorgeous age-old pieces, I walked past the restaurant entrance, glanced at the menu, and made one of those impulsive decisions to stay for lunch.

Places in Paris: Basilique du Sacré Couer

When visiting Paris, there are always the usual places to see which must be ticked off and are popular with all kinds of tourists, the new and awestruck, and the old and jaded. The Basilique du Sacré Couer is one such place, together with some of the seedier parts of its neighbouring Montmartre. I overheard on a recent visit,  "I love this place, this is probably my tenth time - even last year I came". Assuming at the most this is someone that visits Paris every year, that would make it ten years running, or at the very least five years in all if they are bi-annual visitors.

Sacré Couer is like that; I don't know whether it's the juxtaposition of this sacred place alongside the delightfully rebellious Montmartre or just the sheer beauty of the church and it magnificent views that draws the crowds so much. I go often, there are sights in Paris that never get tired for me, and this is one of them.
Venture out, climb the flight of stairs - all 250 of them to the summit at butte Montmartre- the highest point in the city, and take in the panoramic views of Paris.

C'est l'été!

The French celebrate the summer solstice with music. In and around Paris, as well as in other parts of the country there are music festivals abound. Free music shows from early this afternoon with some carrying on until the end of the week.
Coming from a country where our celebration of the longer days and perpetual sunlight is marked by a good braai - mind you the braaing (yes that is a word) never ceases in South Africa irrespective of the weather so I guess that makes that a redundant form of celebration - this is different. I am loving it though and can't wait to take it all in.
It's officially summer and we are counting down to the beginning of the summer holidays.

There are various websites with information about the numerous festivals here, here, and if you happen to be in my neighbourhood, here.

Monumenta 2012

Daniels Buren's colourful transparent discs suspended on black/white columns has been this year's grand display at the Grand Palais. Buren's exhibit is the fifth in what is now becoming a tradition of the Grand Palais. Every year since 2007, as the Exhibit brochure puts it, "MONUMENTA invites as artist of international stature to move into the Nave of the Grand Palais." In previous years the Palais has given a home to the works of Anish Kapoor (2011), Christian Boltanski (2010), Richard Serra (2008) and Anselm Kiefer (2007).

The Japanese revolution in France

Two months ago, Jardin d'Acclimatation had a Japanese exhibit in their gardens, with workshops, shows and presentations of all things Japanese. This following on the last Paris Book Fair in March at which the guest country was Japan. The Musée Guimet is dedicated to Asian arts and culture, and had a long-running exhibition on contemporary calligraphy, which ended on May 14th.
Not forgetting the annual Japan Expo from the 5th to 8th July that is billed as possibly the biggest Japanese expo in Europe, drawing close to two hundred thousand visitors.
Friday nights are sushi and movie nights for my family, and in my neighbourhood alone, I can count within a one kilometre radius more than five sushi restaurants. It is no easy feat getting a table either at these places. Waiting for sushi? Who would've thought? We've clearly joined the revolution.

Oops! I missed it again.

Photo: Aymeric Pasquier/Dîner en Blanc International

Social media and I have yet to become friends. I am the most social media unsavvy blogger ever. I am still reluctant to mobile blog because I feel I may miss the crucial elements of a post if I blog on-the-go; I do not have a facebook page; Twitter? What?
As a result I miss out on some of the really interesting happenings in and around Paris. I confess I have always wanted to be present when a flash mob happens, but alas my latent social media phobia has stymied this. I missed last night's Dinner in White picnic at Place des Vosges . I am kicking myself, but also consoling myself that because it was the most sophisticated and gastronomic of flash mobs and  required an invitation from a previous attendee I may have missed it anyway - even if my friends had been virtual and I twitt(ed). Yeah, right.
I am making it a point not to miss next year's event. Here's the link if you're curious, and some pictures from the facebook page.

Books: THE FINKLER QUESTION by Howard Jacobson

Title: The Finkler Question
Author: Howard Jacobson
Published: 2010
Genre: Fiction

I am always reluctant to write about award-winning books. I always want to read them because the writer in me wants to know what it is that makes an award-winning book, but in the same breath I approach them cautiously because the hype can often lead to a disappointing experience. I did not pick up The Finkler Question for its rave reviews, so my expectations were somewhat managed.
I read this  Booker Prize winner a few months back, and have been struggling to sit and write up on it for a while now. Did I enjoy it? Yes. Would I recommend it? Yes, but a with one caveat: be very patient with the protagonist.

Kabuki costumes

It being Museum Wednesday  - a new thing in our family - we tossed a coin to decide between the Museum of Magic and the current Kabuki Japanese Theatre Costumes exhibition at the Fondation Pierre Berge Foundation-YSL.  The latter won out, magic will have to wait.
I was worried that it would prove to be a brief visit - my son is six and has the accompanying attention span for his age - but it turned out fairly well. Along with the extensive display of the intricately-designed and richly embroidered silk kimonos, were videos being shown in English and French commentary, showing the history of Kabuki in Japan. This was what cinched it for the young man, who was not all that interested in the costumes - he sat through the entire video show- and walked out enthralling us with the facts such as "only boys can do Kabuki".

All that glitters at Château de Versailles

Château de Versailles was the seat of power from 1682 to 1789. With every every king that lived there, three in all, the Château was transformed and expanded - making it an enduring and beautiful part of French history. It is after all the Museum of the History of France. For a history lesson that's concise, and far more interesting than any guide book will provide make a trip to this well-preserved castle.
You can take the guided tours or go for the self tour option. It is bustling with tourists, literally bus loads of them. The grand rooms from where war strategies were formulated, the exquisite grandeur of the hall of mirrors where statesmen were entertained, amongst other exhibits, is all breathtaking. In summer, there are music concerts in the large sprawling, meticulously-maintained gardens, as well as musical fountain shows - check site for details. It's a day trip out of Paris, and a history lesson that's well worth it. As always, more pictures than was necessary were taken on my last trip there.
All photos here - I was pretty much speechless and in awe throughout the entire tour.

François Hollande wins

Photo courtesy: www.telegraph.co.uk

La République Française has a new president. After weeks of constant debates on TV, endless campaigning and heated election conversations over dinners, the people of l'hexagone have spoken.
François Hollande's 51.9% win to outgoing President's, Nicolas Sarkozy's 48.1%, is being  accompanied by jubilant celebrations in Paris by Socialist Party supporters, in the rain, as well as all over the country.
It's a number of firsts in many years for France's political scene:

'Kultures' with Khwezi Strydom in Paris

Alliance Française is renowned for giving young and old burgeoning artists a platform on which to show their work. It's done it again, this time with an exhibit by a young South African artist Khwezi Strydom. The 'Kultures' exhibition will run until 15th June at the Paris branch on Boulevard Raspail.

Khwezi is very reluctant to talk about himself. At the opening night of his exhibition he was casually and comfortably working the room, but in a one-to-one conversation he is reluctant almost to the point of evasive. I am able to glean that he was born in the US of a Tunisian mother and South African father. Raised in the US and France he began drawing at a young age, encouraged by his artist mother. This is his first exhibition.

"The Suit" at Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord

There has been plenty of things South African in Paris this week. We celebrated Freedom Day on the 27th April, took in a South African play; The Suit at Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord last night and tonight Alliance Francaise is hosting an art exhibition by Khwezi Strydom, who works and lives in France.
The Théâtre des Bouffes du Nord is reminescent of the Market Theatre, so it was almost fitting that the Suit is showing here, because the play was first staged at the Market Theatre many years along. If you are in Paris, and would like to see this South African play by Can Themba, it is only until this Saturday 5th. It is sub-titled for the French Speakers and has been sold out, for the entire time is as been running, that is, since April 3rd.

Places in France: Jardin des Plantes

I am finding that school Holidays in France require a full itinerary. The luxury of just being outside in the garden playing is just that, a luxury. Even if the itinerary entails trips to the park, there still has to be thought put to the trip. Decided to fill my childrens' days full of museum trips during the last school holidays - the weather was unfortunately not as cooperative, but we did manage a few tips out.
They loved the Jardin des Plantes, and this is truly one of the best places to visit for children in Paris. There was a little bit of everything for everyone.

Meeting the face behind the faces

Gregos. I am curious as to what his full name is. He lets me in, but  am sworn to secrecy - well at least to not putting it in print. The first time I spotted one of Gregos' faces was on a meander in the 18th almost a year ago. A month ago I spotted another face, again in the 18th, and realised there may well be an entire collection. There is. In the most random of places around the 18th arrondissement.  Admittedly they are becoming harder to spot because he now places them in higher, more obscure and harder-to-reach places because people are taking them down.
It was an afternoon of initiation into the world of street art for me. We met at his quartier general as he calls it, his headquarters, at Le Saint Jean on rue des Abbesses. After which we walked around the neighbourhood as he pointed out various other artists' works, and before long I start to notice the signatures, and spot them on my own.

Places in France : Deauville in Spring

It's not summer yet, but one can see the potential of the throngs of people that will gather once the weather warms up. As it was, on a chilly spring mid morning - the scarves, foulards and heavy jackets were all telling of the weather outside. We arrived just before lunch, after a toss up between staying in the apartment and watching the Golf Masters on TV,  or making the two hour drive to Deauville ; a beach resort in Western France. Deauville won out and it was well worth the drive.