Brunch, carnival and late night dinners

Yesterday, armed with a good review from Oubruncher; literally 'where to brunch' a website dedidated solely to great places to have brunch in Paris, we made our way to the 8th. Le Quai was not our first choice but after numerous attempts to make reservations at our initial choices - and being told that there was nothing available before 2pm (for brunch!) we decided to take the 2pm.

Bonjour à tous!

We are here! Arrived in Paris this morning - feeling excited, not to mention anxious about the new life. Staying in temporary accommodation until next week, then settling in to make this city our home. In the meantime gorging on croissants beurre, baguettes slathered in butter and creamy cheeses. Note to self: Must make plan to walk at least 30 minutes daily.
Champagne is reasonable compared to what we are used to paying (both in SA and Ghana) and a bagful of groceries this morning did set us back some euros; but I can gladly live on bread and cheese for the moment.
Wanderlust! has a whole new location, and from scouring the numerous blogs on Paris, restaurants reviews may not be the main focus going forward. From Paris by Mouth to The Paris Kitchen, the restaurant scene is pretty much covered. What will be the focus? Well, for now it's definitely back to the drawing board. In the meantime, will be looking for places offering french lessons in order to bring the french up to speed; must be able to order those delightful french dishes like a pro by year end. It's always about the food!

Walking with elephants

Another week gone by, and the countdown to leaving sunny but cold, oh so cold SA, about to get underway. In the meantime, we took in the Elephant Sanctuary at Hartbeespoort Dam. One takes for granted how truly magnificent these creatures are, but as majestic as they are, there's something rather pitiful when we see them in enclosures. The Hartbeespoort sanctuary is one of three Elephant Sanctuaries countrywide, with one in Hazyview (Near the Kruger National Park) and another in Plettenberg Bay (along the Garden Route).

Snow in the South

Photo courtesy: www.news24.com

Allow me a moment to whinge...I am freezing and absolutely hating the weather right now! There. Now that's out of the way...for now. Thought I'd keep doing what I do in keeping the pounds at bay, but somehow managed to make it to the gym only twice, just twice in two weeks. Oh Ghana how I miss thee...
Nothing more disheartening than the cool crisp of a winter morning, with just the right amount of bite to remind that you that you ain't in the tropics no more.
It snowed in the Eastern Cape and Kwazulu-Natal and yes, we have not seen any snow in Gauteng, but I am sure there's a cold front that's crept in...IT IS FREEZING. My friends are at a point where they're turning a deaf ear to my complaints, my kids think I'm over-reacting, and pretty much everyone seems to think the weather is par for the course at this time of the year...is it? Global warming has not lent a hand?

Snakes and crocodiles!

The Green Mamba at close range, yes with reinforced double glass in between me and the snake but still at close range, is a terrifying creature. Just the knowledge of the slow and painful death its bite can induce is chilling enough on its own. Behind the glass they appeared harmless though.  Croc City in Fourways, a stone's throw away from the Lion Park was all reptiles and birds. I found it very odd that in the middle of this place that is all about reptiles, there are rabbits hopping here and there, and peacocks strutting about.

Places in SA: The Lion Park, Johannesburg

Lions in the city

We have just over three weeks in SA, and have a carefully drawn up schedule for things to do with the kids; some we have done before, when they were much younger, some are definitely deserving of second visits now that they are older, a bit more engaging and can ask interesting questions. Nothing worse than enthusing about something of interest to a disinterested three year who would much rather find himself at the nearest jungle gym.  The Lion Park in Fourways was first on the list.

What will you do with your 67 minutes?



Photo Courtesy of: http://www.wikipedia.com/

It is Nelson Mandela International Day today and we are not only celebrating the former President's 93rd birthday but  also becoming a nation (or world, it is an International Day) of do-gooders. The day is now not only  going to be a commemoration of Madiba's birthday but also a day to get involved in communities, or whatever works for you in the 'giving-back' department; effectively "be the change...Madiba style" - all that is required is that you give just 67 minutes of your time today to a good cause. Great concept definitely, especially for its association to man lauded worldwide and known for 'giving back' to an entire nation. Happy Birthday Madiba!

Bidding Farewell to Ghana

In the midst of the flurry of activity around packing away our three years here; as well as the farewell teas, lunches and dinners, I almost forgot to write my very last post from Ghana. I am already thinking of how much I will miss the taste of shito with fried yam and kelewele on my tongue. A farewell gift from friends is a recipe book of Ghanaian dishes - which I now have to learn to perfect because according to my kids I can no longer pass off my attempts as Ghanaian with a South African twist, as I have been doing.

Thank you for hosting us. I take with me memories of the sights and sounds: Makola; Agbogboloshie; Cape Coast; Kokrobite; and that Jamestown Castle. I will always remember: crowded La Beach; the Volta River; the castles steeped in history; incessant hooting; aggressive tro-tro drivers; and the fruit - yes definitely the sweet taste of Cape Coast pineapple. Not forgetting: the hawkers selling everything from groundnuts to puppies; the hot sticky weather incredibly I will miss that too; the vibrant colours of kente at a durbar; pride in a culture rich in history; grilled tilapia with banku; the motorcycles of Tamale; and that very Ghanaian greeting Akwaaba.


I bid you adieu ~ Yεbεhyia.

Wandering eye: La Défense art

These sculptures show that here is clearly more to La Défense than its concrete jungle persona.

Jazz in Accra

Last weekend was the Miles Davies Tribute Concert at the Golden Tulip and this weekend +233 - I love that they've taken a very unique country code and created a very cool Jazz spot in Accra - is hosting its very first Jazz Festival, to run over three days.
Last night was the debut night and it drew a sizeable mixed crowd; hope it draws an even bigger crowd in the next two days. If anything go for their kebabs and the music. If you're a Jazz Aficionado go for Gyedu Blay Ambolley, The Sound Factory, Kwame Yeboah & The Ohea BeYeYa Band and others as they play under the cool evening sky. Last night Marion Meadows, the saxophonist, gave the crowds a teaser of what he has in stall for the next two days- and it promises to be great. Cover charge is GHc40.00

Femme Power!

My daughter, the feminist. In a random discussion a couple of days ago about recent age-appropriate sites she'd been on, she was outraged and confused that one said site had informed her that she could not start a club called "Femenists" (sic). "I just wanted to start a club that would discuss female leaders and how they inspire women in society today." Clearly this was a bit too much for 'the site' moderators; after all, revolutions have started more innocuously.

Yesterday however 'the site' approved her Club and she was propelled again on her mission to recruit members and get the discussion going. A small win for an eleven-year old young lady, but today it was huge win for Femme Power as Christine Lagarde was appointed the IMF's first woman Managing Director.

Books: SHANGHAI TANGO by Jin Xing

Title: Shanghai Tango

Author: Jin Xing

Published: 2005

Genre: Memoir



This was a quick read in between the flurry of activity typical of this time of the year. Wishing I had an e-reader given all the books I want to read this Summer...Shanghai Tango is the memoir of a prima ballerina; Jin Xing who danced for the Shanghai Ballet and other prestigious Ballet Companies both in the US and Europe. It is a story told from a very detached voice about a young boy, who is recruited into the People's Liberation Army Dance Corps as a soldier and a dancer at the age of nine. He becomes a celebrated, internationally-acclaimed dancer who goes on to become the first person in China to undergo a full sex-change operation. 

Ewe Kente

I ventured out to Burma Camp; the Army Barracks in Accra last week, to seek out the weavers of Ewe Kente. I met with Ahiagble Bob Dennis who has written a book about Ewe Kente; The Pride of Ewe Kente and runs a small shop in Burma Camp.It's a large compound with about four weavers working on the intricate-looking looms the Kente is woven on.
The most noticeable difference between Ewe and Ashanti Kente is in the use of colour. Ewe Kente, can best be described as 'calm' according to Ahiagble, predominantly using muted colours; yellow, red, green, black, white and blue whereas Ashanti Kente; described as 'cheerful' in colour uses the magenta, yellow, bright green and red colours.
As with Ashanti kente, there is symbolism and meaning in the patterns of the woven cloth.

Declaration of Origin

Finding a good steak in Accra is no longer a case of playing Russian roulette in the culinary search. Restaurants have now caught on to proudly declaring the origin of their meat. Why? Because beef reared on fish produce, a very common thing in Ghana, cannot be labelled 'Surf and Turf' - just unpalatable.

This was not always the case though - a year and a half ago you pretty much went in blind when ordering a steak in a restaurant - wondering as you mulled over the filet on the menu whether it would taste of meat this time or have the slight whiff of fish as well. It took me a while to realise that the whiff of fish in my meat was not the chef using the same pan to make the sauce for my steak and frying the fish for my companion. The whiff was indeed in the meat.

Now restaurant menus have the source of their beef printed clearly and proudly...mainly you will find South African Beef and Argentinian and the odd Californian Beef. The French Restaurants; like Le Tandem remained partial to their home countries' produce, but now other nations' bovine exports are featuring heavily on their menus.
Unfortunately up until last month, South African beef had been off the menu in Ghana due to the latest outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease (FMD) there. The Netherlands has been the main source for Stellar Catering- my trusted supplier of South African beef. Other restaurants that now serve South African beef are:

• Rhapsody's 
• Safari Restaurant
• The former El Gaucho Argentinian Restaurant in Osu.

Everything Art

The Letters from Africa exhibition which has been on at the Brazil House in Jamestown (Old Accra) comes to a close today. I missed it - not from a lack of effort - I went in the morning with a friend and found that it was only open in the afternoons...it was not an entirely wasted trip, the permanent exhibition is interesting also. The images recount the history of the Tabon people in Ghana. Returning slaves from Brazil. It is all explained; from the Portuguese names to the cuisine.

Alabaster Box...Musical Gentlemen

Photo Courtesy of: Alabaster Box

Alabaster Box,  sing what they call 'Afroppella', uniquely African sounds mingled with their perfect acappella repertoire. They are an all-male, gospel acappella music quartet whose sound is reminiscent of South Africa's very own LadySmith Black Mambazo. They are fantastic! For a group that has played to audiences all over the world and toured with world-famous musicians, they were pleasant, extremely humble and positively charming.

Books: THE MADONNA OF EXCELSIOR by Zakes Mda

Title: The Madonna of Excelsior

Author: Zakes Mda

Published: 2002

Genre: Fiction

I read this again right after I finished Chicago, and had just started on The Immigrant by Manju Kapur -  which I have yet to finish. I often find myself in a reading rut where I tend to read books with similar themes and in the same genre at intervals that are too close together. After Chicago, The Immigrant started off feeling similar, which is the reason I have put it down for  a while.

The Madonna of Excelsior is a novel set in pre-democratic South Africa,in the early 1970s, when the then South African government's apartheid state and all its accompanying discriminatory laws were in full force. The Immorality Act, was one such law that forbade sexual relationships between black and white people. Set in the small town of Excelsior in the Free State - and based on a real-life trial in which nineteen citizens of the small town; from upstanding white leaders and pillars of the tightly-knit Afrikaans community to the black domestic workers that worked for them, were charged with contravening the Immorality Act.

Champagne brunch?

I am loving the changing dining landscape in Accra. Three years ago, the dining scene was completely different from what it is today. Bella Roma, Pazzo, Red Chilli, The Lounge to name a few are recent additions to this constantly evolving scene.
The newest addition is the newly-built Mövenpick  Hotel in Accra - next to the Novotel, at the old Ambassador Hotel site. So new in fact that the official launch is only scheduled for October this year. The hotel has however been having a series of soft launches since last month...breakfasts, lunches and dinners. I had breakfast there last week and was fairly impressed. Today we decided on a Sunday brunch with the family and all I can say is...it has been a long time coming.

In Numbers

Maternal mortality remains one of the biggest killers in sub-saharan Africa. In 2000, the United Nations estimated that the number of women who died during pregnancy or shortly after birth at 529,000 (almost one maternal death per minute), of which less than 1% occurred in industrialised countries. These kind of statistics are often bandied around especially as relates to health care but with no real connection as to what they really mean. I'll be the first to admit that it's often just numbers until you break it down for me. As in maternal mortality kills 500,000 women annually around the world, next only to cancer or HIV-AIDS or similar.

Books: CHICAGO by Alaa Al Aswany

Title: Chicago

Author: Alaa Al Aswany

Published: 2008

Genre: Fiction

In the aftermath of the recent uprisings in the Arab world, this was an informative read. One of the members of my Book Club made a comment recently about Egypt that I found to be accurate- especially regarding the World's perception of the Arab states that have just experienced the 'Arab Spring'. 

"I feel like we have been lied to." She was referring to Egypt and I could not have agreed more. No, I do not  live under a rock and yes,  I was aware of the fragility of Egypt's democracy before the uprisings, but in relation to seemingly more despotic states, Egypt was at the periphery of wider political discussion. Or so I thought until the uprisings and subsequent resignation of Hosni Mubarak in February.