Visiting with the dead at Père-Lachaise

Ordinarily I would not go to a cemetery unless it was absolutely unavoidable, but living in Paris makes you do strange things. I spent a good part of a morning reading headstones and photographing graves. Yep! I did.

Le Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is actually a tourist attraction listed as one of the places to visit by most tourist publications. I was on my way back from some place else when I realised that the metro line I was on stopped at Père-Lachaise. I thought, why not? And hopped off.
Père-Lachaise is the nickname given to this most famous of Parisian cemetries. It was officially called Le Cimetière de L'Est. It is located on the site of a former Jesuit retreat east of the city. The Who's Who of Parisian literary, political, and musical greats is buried here. Of course, it is the final resting place of Oscar Wilde that still draws the crowds.

Books: THE REMAINS OF THE DAY by Kazuo Ishiguro

Title: The Remains of the Day
Author: Kazuo Ishiguro
Published: 1989
Genre: Fiction

Kazuo Ishiguro's book, The Remains of the Day is told from the point of view of Stevens, an English butler who throughout his professional career served at Darlington Hall, a grand manor in a time of butlers and maids. It is set in 1950s, but fleets back and forth between these years and the those preceding the Second World War. The reader learns of Stevens's past and of the people he worked for and with, though flashbacks. Central to the story is the butler's relationship with the head housekeeper, Miss Kenton. Their relationship was professional and nothing else, but it soon becomes evident that the telling of the story is about reflection and to some extent regret.

Breaking bread at Notre Dame

This post was meant to be about Notre Dame Cathedral, then I realised that there were pictures I had taken over a month ago, during a bread festival that a friend and I happened upon.
The intention had been to see the Cathedral, and perhaps do the tour if the queues weren't too long. Unfortunately, or is it fortunately, my friend loves her bread as much as I do - so out went the cathedral tour, and in came the bread tasting. It was a great deal of fun; as we watched both the apprentice bakers and old hands go about their business of making bread. Even better was the sampling we got to do.
The cathedral was also just as interesting...from the outside.

Books: SORBONNE CONFIDENTIAL by Laurel Zuckerman

Title: Sorbonne Confidential
Author: Laurel Zuckerman
Published: 2007
Genre: Memoir

When I picked up Sorbonne Confidential I was expecting just an insight into life as a student at the Sorbonne, I got a lot less of this, but it was still an interesting read. The book is more about the course that Laurel Zuckerman enrolled for in her bid to become an English teacher.  The author does a great job explaining the intricate and complicated French education system, and this was particularly interesting as it is a very topical discussion in France. Proponents of the system are adamant that it should not be changed, whilst the reformists argue that it is a system that has not kept up with the rest of the world, and is producing a nation of thinkers rather than doers.

Books: PIGEON ENGLISH by Stephen Kelman

Title: Pigeon English
Author: Stephen Kelman
Published: 2011
Genre: Fiction

This was a humorous and easy read. Stephen Kelman's debut novel was shortlisted for the Man Booker for 2011 - a feat that even he was surprised by . It tells the story of eleven year old Ghanaian immigrant Harry Opoku who lives in inner-city London, in an area riddled by gang war and violence. Following the fatal stabbing of a fellow schoolmate by gang members in his neighbourhood, Harry, together with his best friend go about trying to solve the murder. Although told from Harry's eleven year old perspective, the sense of danger is nuanced but effectively done.

Pretty things at Baccarat

I am such a girl. I went for the pretty crystal. I could say I was curious about the process entailed in making the crystal, the history of the brand, and all that stuff that does not sound as shallow or frivolous, but it wouldn't be the whole truth. Yes, of course, I was curious about it all, but mostly I went to feast my eyes. I ended up doing more than just that though.
What began as an easy jaunt to the Musée Baccarat ended with lunch at the Cristal Room. When one thinks of Baccarat, crystal-tinted images of the luxurious brand come to mind. I have always associated it with just crystal, and only just learnt that the design house has, since 1993, been designing jewelry pieces alongside its highly coveted crystal ware.
After my tour of the museum, having had my fill of the gorgeous age-old pieces, I walked past the restaurant entrance, glanced at the menu, and made one of those impulsive decisions to stay for lunch.

Places in Paris: Basilique du Sacré Couer

When visiting Paris, there are always the usual places to see which must be ticked off and are popular with all kinds of tourists, the new and awestruck, and the old and jaded. The Basilique du Sacré Couer is one such place, together with some of the seedier parts of its neighbouring Montmartre. I overheard on a recent visit,  "I love this place, this is probably my tenth time - even last year I came". Assuming at the most this is someone that visits Paris every year, that would make it ten years running, or at the very least five years in all if they are bi-annual visitors.

Sacré Couer is like that; I don't know whether it's the juxtaposition of this sacred place alongside the delightfully rebellious Montmartre or just the sheer beauty of the church and it magnificent views that draws the crowds so much. I go often, there are sights in Paris that never get tired for me, and this is one of them.
Venture out, climb the flight of stairs - all 250 of them to the summit at butte Montmartre- the highest point in the city, and take in the panoramic views of Paris.

C'est l'été!

The French celebrate the summer solstice with music. In and around Paris, as well as in other parts of the country there are music festivals abound. Free music shows from early this afternoon with some carrying on until the end of the week.
Coming from a country where our celebration of the longer days and perpetual sunlight is marked by a good braai - mind you the braaing (yes that is a word) never ceases in South Africa irrespective of the weather so I guess that makes that a redundant form of celebration - this is different. I am loving it though and can't wait to take it all in.
It's officially summer and we are counting down to the beginning of the summer holidays.

There are various websites with information about the numerous festivals here, here, and if you happen to be in my neighbourhood, here.

Monumenta 2012

Daniels Buren's colourful transparent discs suspended on black/white columns has been this year's grand display at the Grand Palais. Buren's exhibit is the fifth in what is now becoming a tradition of the Grand Palais. Every year since 2007, as the Exhibit brochure puts it, "MONUMENTA invites as artist of international stature to move into the Nave of the Grand Palais." In previous years the Palais has given a home to the works of Anish Kapoor (2011), Christian Boltanski (2010), Richard Serra (2008) and Anselm Kiefer (2007).

The Japanese revolution in France

Two months ago, Jardin d'Acclimatation had a Japanese exhibit in their gardens, with workshops, shows and presentations of all things Japanese. This following on the last Paris Book Fair in March at which the guest country was Japan. The Musée Guimet is dedicated to Asian arts and culture, and had a long-running exhibition on contemporary calligraphy, which ended on May 14th.
Not forgetting the annual Japan Expo from the 5th to 8th July that is billed as possibly the biggest Japanese expo in Europe, drawing close to two hundred thousand visitors.
Friday nights are sushi and movie nights for my family, and in my neighbourhood alone, I can count within a one kilometre radius more than five sushi restaurants. It is no easy feat getting a table either at these places. Waiting for sushi? Who would've thought? We've clearly joined the revolution.

Oops! I missed it again.

Photo: Aymeric Pasquier/Dîner en Blanc International

Social media and I have yet to become friends. I am the most social media unsavvy blogger ever. I am still reluctant to mobile blog because I feel I may miss the crucial elements of a post if I blog on-the-go; I do not have a facebook page; Twitter? What?
As a result I miss out on some of the really interesting happenings in and around Paris. I confess I have always wanted to be present when a flash mob happens, but alas my latent social media phobia has stymied this. I missed last night's Dinner in White picnic at Place des Vosges . I am kicking myself, but also consoling myself that because it was the most sophisticated and gastronomic of flash mobs and  required an invitation from a previous attendee I may have missed it anyway - even if my friends had been virtual and I twitt(ed). Yeah, right.
I am making it a point not to miss next year's event. Here's the link if you're curious, and some pictures from the facebook page.