forget that it is now a crime that extends across numerous jurisdictions or that CITES has gone on further to ban even the sales of stockpiled ivory. This gentleman, my self-appointed guide through the market, saw fit to offer me a "very good price" for this now rare product.
As I politely and forcefully declined, for a moment thinking that I was in the middle of a Candid Camera scene, he graciously continued to 'show me around the market'. I say 'show' reluctantly because it was not my first time at the art market, so I pretty much know my way around - I have been harassed and harangued enough times to know that you firstly; never make eye contact because that makes you fair game - instead you show more interest in the stalls without ever meeting any one's eye, and secondly; lose anything that makes you look overtly like a foreigner - the guidebooks for starters, the awe on your face - even if you may actually be feeling awed...or any hint of interest around you for that matter.
You want to carry with you an air of complete disinterest whilst discretely browsing at the displayed wares. Difficult to do I know, but it is the only way to stave off the unrelenting barrage of persistent selling. Failing which, go with the flow, let yourself be pulled this way and that, put your limited vocabulary to use and bargain...bargain HARD.On hearing the few words I threw in here and there, my guide was soon onto the fact that I would not be that easily won over by his abrasive charm and that I was indeed a local, so probably a lot more savvy than your off-the-plane tourist, and he acquiesced by telling me to let him know when I had friends that wanted wood carvings, art artifacts or indeed ivory, because he was the 'middleman' or 'agent' to most of the sellers.
I did learn something though from my excursion, and that is, the different types of wood used in the making of the sculptures and masks. The 'unity' carvings, something every foreign person should make a point of owning before leaving Ghana are carved from a type of wood called Osese, from the Ashanti region. These carvings are intricately-carved 'Medusa-like' heads emanating from the same core - they are carved from one piece of wood.
My guide, during one of my negotiations over a particularly well-carved piece schooled me as to what to look out for when buying these pieces. Firstly, if the price looks too good - when I told him of the great price I had been offered for a similar piece - it often is. Some carvers use poor quality wood or even glue their pieces together if they break during the carving process.
The Osese wood is used in the carving of the unity sculptures, so one should be sure to verify this before making any purchase; the Odum wood from the Eastern region is more commonly-used for wall hangings, masks etc and Ebony from the Volta for bigger pieces like furniture.
All very informative and interesting, not to mention perfectly legal.
Arts Centre (Centre for National Culture)
28th February Road, Near Kwame Nkrumah Monument, Accra
Tel: (0302) 662 581
these are amazing, loooove it!
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